Bulgari is revisiting one of its boldest creative chapters with a new project that pairs gold and steel, materials once considered unlikely partners in fine jewelry. The initiative, called Gold & Steel, reinterprets a design philosophy the Roman maison first explored in the 1970s, now applied across its most iconic collections.
The revival goes beyond nostalgia. It includes B.zero1 rings, Tubogas bracelets, high jewelry pieces, and watches, each reworked to balance the industrial strength of steel with the warmth of gold.
When steel challenged jewelry conventions
In the 1970s, introducing steel into high-end jewelry was risky. Precious metals like gold and platinum ruled the industry, and steel was dismissed as too industrial and difficult to shape. Bulgari’s choice to adopt the material demanded new tools—machinery had to be modified to handle its rigidity, while artisans developed techniques to work with it without damaging its structure.
The maison treated steel as a partner to gold rather than a replacement. The pairing became a defining feature, later inspiring experiments with porcelain, ceramic, and marble. Gold & Steel now revisits that experimental spirit.
A fresh interpretation of an icon
The B.zero1 collection, introduced in 1999, receives two new versions under the Gold & Steel project. The updated rings use steel as the core, with gold accents tracing the spiral’s edges. The design is lighter than earlier models, intended for everyday wear—whether stacked or worn alone.
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The new versions maintain that inclusivity while adding a modern twist.
Tubogas: industrial design meets elegance
The Tubogas collection, famous for its seamless, flexible spirals, also gets a Gold & Steel update. A new necklace and bracelet rework the maison’s signature technique, using steel as the base and gold for detailing.
Tubogas has remained a cornerstone of Bulgari’s design language for decades. Its ability to evolve while staying true to its origins shows how industrial inspiration can thrive in luxury.
High jewelry and watches expand the concept
The project includes pieces from the Alta Gioielleria collection, where the gold-and-steel pairing is applied to high jewelry.
With Gold & Steel, Bulgari isn’t merely reflecting on its past. The brand uses history to influence what comes next.
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